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Domaine Drouhin-Laroze Clos De Vougeot Grand Cru 2017


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This 2017 Clos Vougeot is dominated by blackcurrants and other day berries which are marred generously on the palate. Medium to full bodied this is both complex and generous. It has good structure which will keep the wine going for a decade or more.

  • Country: France
  • Region: Burgundy
  • Subregion: Côte De Nuits, Clos De Vougeot
  • Vintage: 2017
  • Colour: Red
  • Grape Variety: Pinot Noir
  • ABV: 14%
  • Bottle Size: 75cl
  • Closure: Natural cork
  • Style: Well fruited and with good structure
  • Drink With: Roast lamb 

The Drouhin-Laroze vines are situated in an area of Clos De Vougeot known as Des Papes, more specifically in the Plante L'Abbé and Quartier De Marei Haut lieux-dits in the most westerly section of the Clos. The produce from this upper third section of the Clos De Vougeot was historically reserved for the Popes in Avignon. Separated by a path, these two vineyard parcels have a total surface area of 1 hectare and were planted in 1976, 1989 and 2007.

About the grower

Domaine Drouhin Laroze is based in Gevrey-Chambertin where it has holdings in many of the best Premier and Grand Cru vineyards including Clos Vougeot, Musigny and Bonnes Mares. It is an old estate, begun in 1850 when Jean-Baptiste Laroze established a vineyard in Gevrey. He was succeeded by his son, Félix. The Drouhin side of the name was added in 1919, when Alexandre Drouhin (who owned vineyards in Chambolle Musigny) married Suzanne Laroze, Félix's daughter. Phillipe Drouhin Laroze is the present owner and winemaker, although he is in the process of handing over the running of the estate to his children Caroline and Nicolas, the sixth generation of their family to take the reins.

Each successive generation continued to develop the estate by investing in hillside vineyards, which was a visionary and risky choice one hundred years ago. At the time, those vineyards were already very expensive and not very productive. The bet paid off and today, thanks to the sacrifices and risk-taking of the previous generations, the 11.5 hectare property is one of the most prestigious in terms of diversity, quality and the surface area of its prestigious appellations.

The use of chemical fertilisers is avoided wherever possible, yields are limited even in prolific years, and wine-making techniques which retain the maximum fruit quality are employed. All of the Grand Cru wines are matured in a high percentage of new oak barrels, whilst the rest of the wines are a minimum of 50% new oak. Wines are not filtered or fined before bottling, leaving them as fully and as finely flavoured as possible. Drouhin Laroze boasts 46% of its vineyard holdings as grand cru, an enormous percentage given the size of their vineyard portfolio. I'd never seen a wall of Bonnes Mares barrels stacked two high before, and I was quite overcome on my first visit to the cellar!