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Domaine Lucien Boillot Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Perrières 2014


Domaine Lucien Boillot Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Perrieres 2014 spends a year in one and two year old barrels (no new oak) with no bâtonnage, followed by nearly a full year in tank to allow Pierre Boillot to work this wine naturally. No fining or filtration are used, just gravity and patience. Pale gold with a nose of fresh yet slightly reduced fruit which builds as you swirl the glass, giving way to fresh white stone fruits, some grilled notes but restrained, leading to a slightly broader palate of sweet white fruit, hazelnut and creamed lemons, opening out into a lovely, long, racy, elegant finish. Very classy indeed.

Country: France
Region: Burgundy
Subregion: Côte De Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet
Vintage: 2014
Colour: White
Grape Variety: Chardonnay
ABV: 13.5%
Bottle Size: 75cl
Closure: Natural cork
Style: Focused, elegant and flinty
Drink With: Oysters Rockerfeller

This is the only white wine produced by the Lucien Boillot estate and it is a real rarity well worth seeking out. The vineyard lies close to Les Combettes and Les Referts on the Meursault side of Puligny and therefore it is rather fuller than some of the other premiers crus.

Les Perrières is a respected premier cru vineyard in the village of Puligny-Montrachet, at the southern end of the Cote d'Or escarpment. It is named for its stoney soils – pierre being the French word for "stone" – which make it an excellent terroir for the Chardonnay grape variety. Wines from Les Perrières are focused and elegant with rich, yet flinty notes of nuts and stonefruit.

This premier cru vineyard is at the bottom of the Côte D'Or's slope, situated just above land that is only permitted in Puligny-Montrachet village wines. It is at the far end of the commune from where the Montrachet grand cru vineyards cover the hillside, but nevertheless is in rather good company, surrounded by some of Puligny's top premier cru climats. The border with Meursault is a little way to the north.

In Les Perrières, the vines sit on a marly, chalky soil that has a large proportion of pebbles and stones. Water drains freely here, making the topsoil rather dry and able to absorb heat during the sunny days (a situation helped along by the southeasterly aspect of the vineyard). This reflects onto the vines during cooler periods, which helps with the development of flavours and sugars in the grapes during ripening.

The soil is also good for curbing the vigour and yield of the vines, as water deeper in the ground is hard won by the vines and must be conserved for grape production. This water tends to be richer in minerals because of its contact with the limestone bedrock, and is somewhat responsible for some of the more minerally characters present in the finished wines.