Cabernet Sauvignon
The progeny of Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon Blanc, is the world's most famous red wine grape, and most planted of any colour. The "chocolate" to Chardonnay's "vanilla", Cabernet is much more positively flavoured than Chardonnay, and ripens much later, so tends to be planted in rather warmer areas. The great distinction of the wine it produces is that it has a very powerful and recognisable aroma of blackcurrants wherever it is grown and, if matured in newish oak, can smell of cedar, cigar boxes and, sometimes, tobacco. Cabernet Sauvignon is also notable for being deep purple in youth and, while it is not especially alcoholic, it can be extremely long-lived. This is because Cabernet Sauvignon's small, thick-skinned grapes have a very high ratio of solids rich in colouring matter and tannins to juice. If the grapes are anything less than fully ripe, however, the wine can smell of crushed green leaves, "herbaceous", or more like Cabernet Franc. All of this means that Cabernet can make great wine, but that it is not necessarily the best grape for wines to be drunk young, particularly when grown in cooler climates.
Cabernet Sauvignon has long been planted all over the wine growing world. Contrary to popular belief Cabernet Sauvignon is not Bordeaux's most planted vine (for which see Merlot). Because it is relatively late ripening, it needs a warmer, drier environment than most of Bordeaux can provide to stand a commercially interesting chance of ripening fully. In Bordeaux, therefore, it is grown in the Entre-Deux-Mers region as well as in the well-drained gravels of the Médoc and Graves where it is invariably the chief constituent, but always blended with Merlot, Cabernet Franc and sometimes with Petit Verdot, in the world-famous classed growths. Even today, when the grapes for such wines are being picked later and later, Bordeaux Cabernets tend to taste quite dry (as opposed to sweet) and can be inky and austere even until seven or eight years old. But underpinning all that structure (in a good example) is an extraordinary intensity of subtly layered fruit that can take 20 years to develop into a bouquet of haunting interest.
In the Médoc Cabernet is the main varietal component in Saint-Estèphes that are taut and austere in youth (although they are getting riper and more welcoming with every vintage); in the dense, mineral-scented Pauillacs; in many a lush, silky Margaux; and in the beautifully balanced yet long-lived Saint-Juliens. It brings crispness and long life to the wines of Graves and the suggestion of warm bricks common to several from Pessac-Léognan.
It is planted all round the greater Bordeaux region in those appellations grouped together as constituting south-west France, out-tannined only by the Tannat grape of Madiran. Bergerac and Buzet are its chief strongholds.
Elsewhere in France there are growers who persist with it in the Loire (although Cabernet Franc is much easier to ripen), although most of the rest is in the south. In Provence it can blend beautifully with the spicier Syrah to make ambitious, oak-aged wines for the long term. In the Languedoc it all too often ripens less satisfactorily than in, say, the Médoc and tends to yield rather lean, hollow, country wine, although an increasing proportion of seriously fine wine is made.
Cabernet Sauvignon has been responsible for some of Italy's most ambitious wines. Tuscan producers have long been trying to get the proportions of their manifold Cabernet/Sangiovese blends just right, and many of them, led by Sassicaia, have shown that Tuscany is probably the most likely third candidate for Cabernet paradise on earth, after Bordeaux and California. Tuscan Cabernet tends to be marked by firm structure, a certain but not unattractive bitterness, and a distinctly savoury flavour. There are also bottlings from as far afield as Piemonte and Sicily. (Cabernet Sauvignon thrives in fairly hot regions as it retains its acidity well throughout its slow final ripening stage.) Bottles from north-east Italy described simply as "Cabernet", however, almost certainly contain Cabernet Franc, rather than Cabernet Sauvignon. Cabernet Sauvignon is the dominant Cabernet planted widely and enthusiastically in central Europe, however. It clearly has great potential in Moldova and the Ukraine, although Cabernet Severny's cold-resistance can make it more useful in Russia. Cabernet Sauvignon is extremely important to the wine industries of Bulgaria and Romania, and to a much lesser extent, Austria, Hungary and the Balkans.
Cabernet is rare in Portugal and but has been planted so enthusiastically in Spain that it is the fourth most planted red wine grape there, particularly in Somontano and Navarra where it has shown how well it blends with Tempranillo (even though the two varieties have rather similar structures). In the hills of Penedès it has won considerable acclaim.
This late-ripening variety does particularly well in the warmer Mediterranean regions, notably in Lebanon and Israel. One of the most distinctive Cabernets of all is that produced by Château Musar in Lebanon’s Bekaa Valley. Here it is blended with Cinsault to produce a unique, long-living cough syrup of a wine with enough wily charm to confound all but the most prejudiced wine drinkers. Many of South Africa's traditionally most revered wines, and a few of her best, are Cabernets which have shown some satisfying regional variations. Cape winemakers, however, have tended to make 100% Cabernets, unsoftened by Merlot or leavened by Cabernet Franc, as indeed was the initial effect of varietalism in California. And leafroll virus has been a problem for many Cape Cabernet vineyards.
California in general, and particularly Northern California, has made some great, glossy, ultra-ripe Cabernets, nowadays deliberately made from grapes that are so ripe that the level of tannin (if not alcohol) is virtually unnoticeable. Today there is growing understanding of the precise characteristics of various areas within Napa and Sonoma and how these are shown to best advantage. Much of the Napa Valley, other than Carneros in the far southern end, seems particularly well suited to Cabernet Sauvignon production and this will continue to be one of the world's most fruitful hunting grounds for lovers of super-ripe Cabernet that has the ability to age (though not nearly as long as Bordeaux). Many finer California Cabernets show a certain minty quality, others an earthiness. Blends made according to the Bordeaux recipe are sometimes called Meritage here. Washington's Merlot is generally more successful than its equally common Cabernet Sauvignon but there are some stunning exceptions with extremely bright fruit. Cabernet may well have a future in Texas too, but has difficulty ripening in Oregon. It is planted in most American wine producing states and shows particular promise in Virginia's best-kept vineyards.
Cabernet cuttings were taken to South America long before the phylloxera pest struck well over a century ago and indeed the Chilean wine industry was built on this very important variety. (Chile's largest company Concha y Toro has claimed to be the world's most important owner of Cabernet Sauvignon vineyard.) Chilean Cabernet, most of it still ungrafted, has a particularly direct, fruity flavour, and can be enjoyed when only a year or two old. Some wines have a vague whiff of milk chocolate about them, followed up by something ever so slightly salty on the palate. Argentine Cabernet is typically more explosive in flavour and more velvety in texture.
Australia defined her perfect spot for Cabernet Sauvignon before consciously doing the same for any other variety: Coonawarra in the far south east of South Australia on a small and hotly disputed strip of terra rossa earth. These wines tend to have a noticeably high level of acidity as well, often, as some notes of eucalyptus, sometimes so powerful that the wines can seem closer to cold remedies in youth, although the best age superbly. Margaret River in Western Australia also makes great, particularly refined, complex Cabernet and there are fine examples of Australian Cabernet all over Victoria as well as in the Hunter Valley and elsewhere, although Shiraz is much more fashionable. Cabernet/Shiraz blends are an Australian staple and can work well.
New Zealand's Cabernet Sauvignon can be too herbaceous and acid by half but the best examples, most of them grown in the relatively warm climates of Hawke’s Bay and Waiheke Island are increasingly ripe, thanks to global warming and improved viticulture.
China's recent wine-producing revolution has been based almost entirely on extensive plantings of Cabernet Sauvignon even if the results are mainly still rather light and undistinguished.
In many wine regions, however, the necessarily slow evolution of Cabernet is being re-evaluated, often to the benefit of other, fleshier red varieties. It may be that in a decade or two, Cabernet Sauvignon will be more exclusively the preserve of the world's most ambitious winemakers.
By Jancis Robinson
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£39.00
Château Musar 1998
Château MusarThis is a Cinsault dominated wine which eminates from a fairly cool vintage thus it is elegant with plenty of finesse. It has good depth on the pal...
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£15.17
Astoria 'el Ruden' Veneto Rosso I.G.T.
Astoria ViniHigh quality and slightly unusual! Ruden in Venetian dialect means rust, hence the colour of the label. It is a blend of equal quantities of Merlot...
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£21.57
Ernie Els Big Easy Red
Ernie ElsThe Ernie Els Big Easy Red offers a spicy, savoury richness; the Cabernet Sauvignon adds structure while dashes of Grenache, Mourvèdre and Cinsault...
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£10.94
Domaine Horgelus Cotes de Gascogne Rosé
Domaine HorgelusAn intense and complex bouquet of sweet wild strawberries, citrus fruits and fresh, juicy blackcurrants lead into a smooth and thirst-quenching pal...
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£41.05
Ernie Els Big Easy Red Magnum
Ernie ElsAs the name suggests the Ernie Els Big Easy Red is bold in flavour and yet easy in demeanor. Pure, ripe, purple and red fruits immediately leap out...
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£35.18
Rust En Vrede Estate Wine
Rust En VredeThe 2016 Rust En Vrede Estate Wine is a blend of 58% Cabernet Sauvignon, 31% Shiraz and 11% Merlot. It is a deep crimson red, with aromas of tobacc...
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£36.57
Glenelly Lady May
Glenelly EstateElegant and complex, Glenelly Lady May develops flavours of cassis, blackcurrant, dark cherry, a touch of graphite and delicate, spicy plum fruit. ...
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£13.64
Indaba Braai Cabernet Sauvignon
IndabaThe essence of a Braai is captured in this bold Cabernet Sauvignon which has aromas and flavours of dark berries, earth and smoke - the ideal compl...
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£11.74
Indaba Mosaic
IndabaIndaba Mosaic is a Cabernet Sauvignon dominated Bordeaux blend, displaying alluring aromas and juicy flavours of blackcurrant, ripe, earthy berry f...
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Original price £61.25Current price £59.14
Ernie Els Signature
Ernie ElsPerhaps the most serious Ernie Els Signature yet, the 2014 is a brooding, powerful Bordeaux-style blend produced from prime vineyards in the Helder...
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£21.34
Glenelly Estate Reserve Rouge
Glenelly EstateThe Glenelly Estate Reserve Rouge has a dark, deep and rich ruby colour. There are aromas of blackcurrant and spicy plum fruit, with notes of toast...
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£29.93
Château Bernadotte 2009, Haut-Médoc
Château Bernadotte"The finest Château Bernadotte made to date, this 2009 is an undeniable sleeper of the vintage. Composed of 47% Cabernet Sauvignon, 47% Merlot, and...
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£30.35
Ernie Els Proprietor's Blend 2017
Ernie ElsAfter hand-picking the fruit in the early morning ensuring the grapes came into the winery cool and were transferred to open-topped fermenters for ...
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£28.53
Le Benjamin de Sansonnet Grand Cru St Emilion 2016
Chateau SansonnetThe second wine of this exemplary Grand Cru Classe St Emilion is a terrific offering and often is more impressive than many first wines. Merlot dom...
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£13.57
Parés Baltà Mas Petit
Parés BaltàPares Balta Mas Petit displays a deep, dark garnet colour. The nose is full of spice and smoke, along with blackberry, black olive, dried herbs and...
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£23.07
Ernie Els Major Series Cabernet Sauvignon 2018
Ernie ElsThis superb Cabernet Sauvignon is ideal for current consumption but has plenty of time left in it for the patient. The nose opens with a generous b...
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£14.90
Domaine Wardy Les Terroirs Rouge 2017
Domaine WardyThis is an excellent, inexpensive expression of Beqaa Valley wine which is truly classic. A blend of Cinsault, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Merlot...
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£14.44
Rustenberg RM Nicholson
RustenbergRustenberg RM Nicholson has blackcurrant aromas complemented by scents of dried herbs and notes of black pepper and spice, followed by a palate wit...
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£11.94
Anjou Rouge - Domaine des 2 Moulins
domaine des 2 moulinsA stunning chewy red made from Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. As soon as we tasted this we new it would be a winner yet the Loire Valley is...
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£18.80
Bodega Toneles Tonel 46 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon
Bodega TonelesBodega Toneles Tonel 46 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon is something of a blockbuster, intensely coloured and packed with pure and generous blackcurrant...
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Original price £35.90Current price £33.44
Rustenberg Peter Barlow Cabernet Sauvignon
RustenbergRustenberg Peter Barlow Cabernet Sauvignon is characterised by an upfront perfume, intermingled with concentrated cassis and black cherry fruit, so...
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£17.19
Château Haut-Colombier 2015, Premières Côtes De Blaye
Château Haut-ColombierChateau Haut-Colombier is a blend of 85% Merlot, 10% Malbec and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. Ripe and juicy, this is a ready-to-drink wine. It has berry ...
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£25.42
Gratavinum Dolç D’En Piqué
GratavinumGratavinum Dolc d’en Pique has an intense, deep, ruby colour with purple hues. Great aromatic intensity and complexity on the nose, with rich, drie...
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£64.49
Chateau Prieure Lichine - Margaux 2018
Petit ChateauThis 4th growth from Margaux is a deliciously fruited, moderately powerful red with elegant fruit aromas as you would expect from Margaux. It still...
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£14.64
Ernie Els Big Easy Cabernet Sauvignon 2018
Ernie ElsThis crunchy and full fruited Cabernet Sauvignon was sourced from proprietary vineyards on the Heldeberg together with contract grown fruit from di...
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£41.92
Lacoste Borie - Pauillac 2016
petits chateaux bordeauxThis second wine of the 5th Growth Chateau Grand Puy Lacoste has a great reputation. And rightly so as the Borie family take great care in the prod...
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£33.14
Clementin de Pape Clement - Pessac Leognan 2011
petits chateaux bordeauxChateau Pape Clement is one of the best run estates in Bordeaux and the second wine, Clementin de Pape Clement benefits from the same care and atte...
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£111.64
Chateau Canon la Gaffeliere - St Emilion Grand Cru Classe 2017
petits chateaux bordeauxAnother excellent wine from the Von Niepperg stable. A blend of Merlot 60% Cabernet Franc 30% and Cabernet Sauvignon 10%, where the fruit was affec...
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£35.88
Chateau Lilian Ladouys - St Estephe Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel 2018
petits chateaux bordeauxPurchased by the Lorenzetti family in 2008, Chateau Lilian Ladouys is being groomed for stardom and indeed, even now it has been elevated to Cru Bo...
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£70.90
Chateau Gloria - St Julien 2016
petits chateaux bordeauxMeticulous wine-making have given this wine great precision and depth of flavour. It is a blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon 30% Merlot and small amo...
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£50.68
Chateau Pibran - Pauillac 2017
Chateau PibranA great wine from the AXA stable and a close relative of Chateau Pichon Baron. It has decent colour, moderate to rich garnet with some purple notes...
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£55.83
Chateau Grand Puy Ducasse - Pauillac 2017
Château Grand-Puy DucasseThis is an excellent offering from what is quite an underrated estate with vineyards sited close to Batailley, Lafite and Mouton. It has a deep gar...
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£40.34
Duluc De Branaire-Ducru 2018, Saint-Julien
Château Branaire-DucruDuluc De Branaire-Ducru 2018 has an appealing floral nose, aromatic with hints of dark fruit. Generous and fine with superb concentration, beautifu...
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Original price £30.50Current price £29.54
Terranoble Lahuen Cabernet Sauvignon Blend 2018 - Maipo Valley
Sol de AndesA dark and brooding red wine from the Maipo Alto and Los linguas areas of the Colchagua Valley. It is a blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon with Syrah,...
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£47.38
Chateay Meyney - St Estephe 2011
Petit ChateauOver the last decade or so Chateay Meyney has returned to the quality levels of yesteryear and is now a top flight St Estephe that should be consid...
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£62.34
Chateau Cos Labory - 5ieme Cru St Estephe 2016
Petits Chateau BordeauxThis top class property located on the Cos hill of St Estephe is a chewy and chunky claret that will age for a further decade or so from now (2022)...
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